Why is it so hard to figure out my skincare routine?
You’ve probably heard from just about everyone in the world who’s a celebrity, aesthetician, or even that special aunt on their personal skincare secrets to getting picture perfect, #iwokeuplikethis skin. Factor in all the marketing noise and constant product launch overload and welp, most of us are now huddled in a corner somewhere between “I give up. I’m lost.” and “I don’t like my skin, why doesn’t it ever get better?”
The real problem that no one is addressing is that no two skin profiles are alike simply because of differences in DNA, makeup, lifestyle, location, level of stress, diet, gender, etc. What that means is that your routine should be personally tailored based on your skin quirks and not just following what anyone else tells you. Let’s breakdown the routine!
The chemist’s view of the skincare routine…
One of the most common questions we get is on the application order of all the different products. When experimenting with adding a product to your routine, the general rule of thumb is to go from products that contain the most water to the least water. The reason for this is simply that the skin is fatty, meaning it’s generally hydrophobic (has water repelling tendencies), which makes it challenging for these water-based formulas to absorb. The oils, butters, and waxes not only tend to have a bigger molecular size, but are also hydrophobic making it increasingly difficult for these water-based products to absorb. After applying those guys, it becomes increasingly difficult for these watery serums carrying actives to penetrate pass these oily films and then be absorbed by the skin.
- Cleanser: Do it. Everyday your skin is exposed to outside aggressors like pollutants, UV rays, and cigarette smoke. These not only add to skin inflammation but the cultivation of these toxins can create free radicals which eventually lead to the dreaded wrinkles. Help your skin out and wash your face. Cleansers help to clear skin of pollutants, old makeup, and dead skin cell. Depending on your skin you may not have to wash twice a day.
- Toners/Actives/Treatments: If you’re looking to add an extra splash of moisture or want to use a serum to tackle those skin concerns like wrinkles or pigmentation, the most ideal time would be after the cleanser and before your moisturizer. After cleansing, your face has been primed for soaking in these watery components and will be sealed in by the rest of your product layers.
- Moisturizer: Do it. Moisturized skin is healthy skin. If you can solve the problem of dehydrated skin first, those treatments and serums will have a much easier time going to work for you in tackling those skin issues you’ve been worried about.
- Oils and Occlusives: For those extra dry days, face oils and balms can become clutch products. Face oils also provide some extra nourishment and glow, while occlusive balms can target stubborn dry patches. A little goes a long way for this category.
- SPF (in the daytime): Do it. Why do we skincare? Because we don’t want to prematurely age. And what is one of the main causes of premature aging? Too much sun. Plain and simple. Look for a sunscreen that’s labeled “broadspectrum” with an SPF range of 30-50 to protect yourself from both UVA and UVB. Oh and don’t forget to reapply at least every 2 hours and check the expiration date!
Takeaway
At the end of the day, no one is going to know better than yourself what your skin needs. The routine is very much a personal experiment that each of us builds through trial and error. Once you’ve established your skin’s musts, the experimenting gets a lot easier and you can make your routine as minimalistic or grand as you like.
- Cleanse, Moisturize, SPF. Do it.
- If you’re confused, try to go from products containing more water to less water.
how to reapply sunscreen, after applying a makeup?
I love the SUPERGOOP!
Defense Refresh Setting Mist Broad Spectrum SPF 50
SO light and smells great. Doesn’t mess up makeup at all. I carry in my purse always.
Hi! This probably won’t work since your sunscreen will interfere with how your makeup sets up and vice versa. The easiest way to make sure you’re getting both coverage and protection is using something like liquid foundation with spf, CC cream, or tinted sunscreen instead.
In order to have the SPF mentioned of the product, you need to apply 1,24ml or product for an average face. You will never apply enough liquid foundation/ BB or CC cream to have the protection mentioned on it. You need to use a proper SPF under your makeup. As we probably don’t apply enough of it, I go with the highest protection I can find. I wear a hat and keep as much as I can to the shade. People usually say I look 5-6 years younger than my age.
Everything you say is true, but sunscreen only last 2 hours. And a hat in the car while driving isn’t working. We need better solutions 😭
U can use sunscreen as compact powder as I use lakme 40 spf pa ++++ compact powder after makeup
Hi! Thanks for making clear the routune stuff. Just wanna ask it is right to put sunscreen after oil product? Does the skin absorb chemical filters?
We don’t recommend applying sunscreen right after an oil since sunscreens work best by forming a uniform film. Layering sunscreen over an oil product can interfere with how these oil-based chemical filters set up. In fact, we don’t recommend layering anything when using sunscreen. I know sometimes it can’t be helped as we still need moisturizers and foundations. Try leaving a decent amount of drying time in between products or combine aspects in an spf foundation/moisturizer. Also, there is some absorption of chemical filters however it isn’t well understood. Hope that helps!
Hello! I’m in my late 20’s but I’ve had acne from as long as I can remember. I’ve been through periods of mild acne but right now I get new pimples every single day, sometimes cyst like pimples, sometimes whiteheads. I’ve also tried almost everything: AHAs BHAs, benzoil prroxide, retinoids, salicylic acid, and nothing seems to work. My dermatologist recommended to habe antibiotics and bioderma sebium and to change my shampoo. I can’t find affordable hair care products for oily hair. Is there anything you can recommend? I used isotretinoin during my teen years but can’t have them right now. My skin is oilier than ever. Can you help? Should I moisturize?
Sorry to hear the struggles and hope things get better soon. So with cystic acne, I want to preface this by saying that the derm’s recommendation should trump ours when it comes to acne. However, if you’d like, email us your routine at info@chemistconfessions. We can try to see if there’s a way to optimize your skincare routine while you’re going through treatment. It’s still important to lightly moisturize because aggressive treatments can dry you out and throw your skin hydration off balance. Also, it’s always ok to get a second opinion if you feel uncomfortable with the course of treatment. Good luck!
What works for one person may not help everyone, but that doesn’t mean that through
experimentation you may not find something utilizes you. What happens is that after skin continues to be damaged, blood rushes to the scene bringing
with it chemicals, platelets and white blood cells to assist
fight infection and prevent the flow of blood.
Use an Exfoliating Facial Wash – Cleaning the face with soapy water isn’t enough.
Hi!
I’m wondering about exfoliating my skin. How often should facial skin be exfoliated and what type of exfoliating product is best?
Hi! How often and what can be a bit subjective depending on your skintype.
For chemical exfoliants like AHAs, you can start with lactic acid (milder form). Under 10%, it can be used every day or every other day. If your skin is tolerant, we’d recommend using a more aggressive higher concentration mask once a week or so.
With chemical exfoliants, some mild discomfort while using is normal. What you want to avoid is excessive peeling and redness that lasts long after use — that’s how you know you’ve over exfoliated.
Physical exfoliants you can use around once to twice a week.
Hope this helps!
I’m all over the map on this. Am I doing this in the correct order, should I be leaving something out or adding something?
Currently my AM routine is:
Vit C Serum
The Ordinary Peptides (no copper)
2.5% Retinol Serum or Cream
Strivectin Eye Cream
Hyaluronic Acid (not sure if I should skip)
Ceravu Moisturizer
PM routine:
2.5% Retinol serum or cream
Strivectin Eye Cream
Hyaluronic Acid
Retinol degrades in the sun (the reason they come in dark or light proof containers) So I wouldn’t wear retinol in the AM if I was going out in sun as it may degrade and be a bit of a waste of product. Also vitamin C and retinol need different pHs (according to the blog post about combining skincare actives). If it was me I would do this:
AM:
Hyaluronic acid (this is hydrating, its up to you if you want to use it or not)
Vitamin C
Peptides
Eye cream and Cerave.
PM:
Hyaluronic acid
Retinol Serum or cream
Eye cream/any other creams
You should try to add a sunscreen to your morning routine, or replace cerave with one.
I dont wear makeup but I do use a powdered sunscreen that is like translucent powder by Jane Iredale.
Hi! I am new to the skincare world and am trying to develop a routine for my hormonal acne skin, I have acne and some light scarring, discoloration so am trying to orbit my routine around those issues but i’m a bit confused about the order of things and how long to wait in between each step. Here’s where I’m at right now:
AM:
– [ ] Gentle Cleaner (cetaphil non-foaming)
– [ ] Hada Labo / Hylaraunic Acid and/or Rose Water toner
– [ ] The Ordinary Nicacinamide/Zinc suspension
– [ ] rose or other type of facial oil
– [ ] Vitamin C serum
– [ ] The Ordinary Azelaic Acid (not sure if i should use as spot treatment or whole face)
– [ ] SPF/moisturizer
PM:
– [ ] Foaming Cleaner
– [ ] Hada Labo / Hylaraunic Acid and/or Rose Water toner
– [ ] Tretinoin 0.1% prescription – 3 nights/week (should I alternate w/ Azelaic acid and Salicylic Acid?)
– [ ] Clindamycin gel 1% (prescription)
– [ ] facial oil at end
i’m not sure if the Daytime routine is too many actives and am reading conflicting things about the order of operations! I also have body acne and am not sure how to apply this routine to my body, as of now i’m just doing the clindamycin in the day and tretinoin and clindamycin in the evenings on clean skin (not every day for the tret).
I would really appreciate any insight into this routine as i’m reading a lot and am sort of overwhelmed but excited by all the info! 🙂
Great article! I can take great ideas to create a best skincare routine by following this article. Thanks and keep sharing.
My 13 year old daughter has Keratosis Pilaris along with dry skin. I am trying to help her develop a good easy to follow skin care routine. As far as the toners/actives/treatments, what would you recommend?
Hi there, awesome blog – i cant wait to read everything!
Pleaseee please help!!
AM: micellar water cleanse
Hydrating mist
Marine Hyalyronics (the ordinary) on damp skin
Niacinamide + zinc (the ordinary)
Biologique Recherche – creme collagen marin.
Dr Hauschka eye balm
*Evenings are the same, but start with 7% glycolic acid solution.
I’ve ordered some squalane and have no idea when to use it. My skin definitely needs some extra moisture. Could the niacinamide be drying me out? Ive been using it to try and shrink the large pores on my cheeks.
Does squalane go after hyaluronic acid and niacinamide?
Sorry for the long rant (I could go on for days!)
Xxx
Can my sunscreen La Roche Posay Anthelios Melt in Milk sunscreen spf 60 be used in place of a moisturizer? I live in a humid area and don’t like adding more moisture to my already oily combo skin.